Beauty oil: Interview with Béatrice Dubois

Why did you choose natural oils for your range?

Having lived in Grasse with a grandmother who taught me respect for nature and herbal beauty recipes, I have always been sensitive to vegetable oils. But it was after realizing that there were more and more allergies and health problems around me, that I began to think about the development of a range of treatments, from of organic and healthy ingredients. In this context, it was obvious to use vegetable oils: they do not contain heavy metals, only carbon, hydrogen and oxygen.

They have been used for millennia. How do they embody modernity?

Natural oils have indeed a very long history behind them, with the first traces of their use in beauty care, 7000 BC. In each region, women used local resources to heal their skin, argan in Morocco, coconut oil in Polynesia ... This made it possible to identify oils from all over the world.

If they are so interesting for current cosmetology, it is because the efficacy that has been suspected for centuries is now a scientific reality. Oils are a real "vegetable gold" thanks to their richness in polyunsaturated fatty acids, including three in particular: Omega 3, Omega 6 and Omega 9. The first two are not synthesized by our body but they are essential to our balance, especially that of the skin. In the stratum corneum, the cells are linked to each other by these famous fatty acids, which ensure cohesion, plasticity and good resistance of the epidermis to attack.

The other great thing about vegetable oils is that they don't need preservatives because they don't contaminate themselves. They can just oxidize in light, heat and oxygen, a disadvantage that is easily avoided by enclosing them in airtight vials that do not allow light to pass, and by keeping them away from sources. heat. Having very simple formulas, to which no substances that can be irritating are added, is a real plus, at a time when poisoning and allergies are on the increase.

Are there "star" oils in cosmetics?

We cannot say that there are oils more interesting than others even if there are fads that revive a particular oil from time to time. They all have their strengths and the real novelty today is mixing them. Indeed, oils are composed of 98% fatty acids and 1 to 2% unsaponifiables, vitamins (A, E, C, K), minerals, enzymes and colorings. But each has its own composition, hence the advantage of combining them both to obtain maximum effectiveness but also to be able to treat different types of skin. The real know-how is to find the right balance and obtain a treatment that will be a real pleasure to use, unlike some ancestral formulas, which are considered too heavy.

Precisely, can we treat all skin types with natural oils?

Thanks to this “mix” work, it is quite possible to obtain care for all skin types, even combination and oily, because certain oils, such as black cumin oil (black cumin) associated with essential oils, are purifying and have the ability to regulate the functioning of the sebaceous glands. Cho Nature has even developed a treatment for the eye area, composed of four vegetable oils and two essential oils.

Is offering natural oil-based treatments an asset for institutes?

The demand for organic and “as natural as possible” has been increasing day after day for several years in all areas, that of health and nutrition, as well as beauty and well-being. Offering in-cabin treatments that incorporate vegetable oils is therefore entirely in the right direction. In addition, these are necessarily high-end treatments because quality oils, natural or essential, are among the most expensive raw materials on the market. To retain all their properties, vegetable oils need to be harvested with great care, they must also come from a first cold pressing. On the other hand, faced with the high price of the ingredients and which ultimately affects the care, there is an essential qualitative argument to be made: a beauty oil offers the skin 100% active ingredients because it does not contain a drop of water, unlike many other formulas.

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